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As seen in The Signal - July 14, 2007...

CHECK THAT DECK

By Jim Walker

SIGNAL STAFF WRITER

Your wooden deck or patio cover may need a little TLC. A primer on the finer points of deck care and maintenance.

When you think of wooden decks and deck maintenance, you probably visualize an expansive redwood deck raised just above the ground, stained, and then coated with some waterproofing liquid, as you see on television. However, this type of deck is not all that common in the Santa Clarita Valley. That’s because, at ground level, there really isn’t much need to build a deck where you already have concrete. “We’re big on concrete out here,” said Scott Donelson.

Donelson is the owner of Scott Construction, and he has been in the patio and deck construction business here for 22 years. He explained that, in the SCV, second story balcony decks are much more common than hillside decks or patio decks.

“Redwood decks are just hardly done here at all. You can’t do much with them,” he said. Correspondingly, Donelson noted that, on decks and patio covers alike, the most common finish used in the SCV is paint, rather than stain.

“Paint can make something look like finished furniture. Stain never will. It will still look like an outdoor piece of wood. Stain protects from the elements. That’s really all it does,” he said.

With these points in mind, Donelson offered his tips on maintaining your wooden patio covers and decks.

Structural Check

Donelson’s first step in any deck maintenance procedure is to check the structure itself, looking for dry rot, termites, loose nails, etc. He said these problems are especially common with stainedwood decks because of the gaps present between the floorboards. “The gaps allow water and dirt to get between the boards. The dirt holds the moisture,” he said.

The moisture gets into the wood and can lead to weathering, rot, termites and other problems. “When I’m building them I always do a solid or Trex floor,” Donelson said.

Trex is a brand of composite material made from reclaimed wood and plastic. It stands up to moisture and won’t rot. Donelson recommends using Trex floorboards on hillside decks. Because these boards still have gaps between them, water won’t run off the deck in concentration and erode the hillside.

Donelson’s method for solid floors is to use 2-by-6 inch floorboards, fitted together tongueand-groove, then a layer of plywood over them, followed by an epoxy coating that makes the surface completely waterproof and has a non-skid surface. “That’s the way we do all our balconies, all our decks,” he said.

When checking the structure of your deck or patio cover, Donelson said to look for “sawdust,” which indicates the presence of termites. Dry rot can be detected in a different manner. “With dry rot, if you poke it (the wood), it will dent,” he said. Left untreated, a section of dry rot will spread.

“A lot of people have this in their eves,” he said. Donelson offered one last point on the structural check. “If you’re going through (your deck) to maintain it, replace nails with screws,” he said. Screws hold a deck together better than nails, that tend to loosen over time.

Check the Finish

Donelson’s second step is to check the finish on the wood. However, he doesn’t subscribe to any designated number of years before repainting.

“There is no such thing as every so-many years. It’s as needed. If it’s needed, it’s needed. If not, not,” he said. Donelson said that, if your paint is peeling, you waited too long. “Paint won’t stick to weathered wood,” he said. You need to sand down through the paint and weathered wood to reach good wood. But this is just a light sanding. Since wood turns gray when weathered, you’ll know when the weathered wood has been removed.

Clean the deck with a broom and water before sanding, using a mild detergent — if you have to.

But be sure the wood is completely dried out before painting.

Donelson recommends using a hand sander, a vibrating sander or an orbital sander. “If you take 2-by-2s and use a belt sander, you won’t have 2-by-2s for long,” he said. The grit of the sandpaper should be fairly course “to get the job done and move on.” After the wood has been sanded, you apply primer and then repaint.

“The purpose of the primer is for the paint to stick,” Donelson said. Donelson always recommends using water-base paint. “If it is painted with an oilbased paint it will need to be sanded, re-primed and painted

with a water-base paint,” he said. He explained that oil-based paint is a “mistake” outside.

“It turns yellow, splits — it has no elasticity. You need a paint that will hold to it better,” he said. He also recommends using semi-gloss paint, not flat paint. “Flat paint absorbs water, semigloss doesn’t. That’s why kitchens and bathrooms are painted in semi-gloss,” he said. Semi-gloss also retains its elasticity better.

Other Maintenance

“The more you stay on top of (deck) maintenance, the less maintenance you will have to do,” Donelson said. For example, if you see a separation between wood joints, touch it up right away and it will be fine.

But if you wait, it will peel and you’ll have to re-do the whole thing. Separations at joints occur naturally. Donelson said that, after a patio is built, the wood will dry out and move. That’s why he recommends repainting a new patio cover or deck within six to nine months. At this point the old paint will still be good and the preparation should only require a good cleaning before the new paint goes on.

If your deck is a balcony type, Donelson said to check for leaks where water runs off it. This can be critical where the anchor bolts attach to the house. He said that, by code, your balcony posts are an inch off the ground, so as not to soak up water. But, if they are placed near the edge of a slab, where sprinklers hit them regularly, the wooden collars around the post bases may need to be replaced. These collars are put in place to take on the wear and tear that would otherwise happen to the post, itself.

Cleaning your deck or balcony is mostly for aesthetics. Donelson said that cleaning doesn’t make a lot of difference to the wear and tear. “Water and the sun are what does the most damage, and the paint protects,” he said.

He noted that for raised decks, the top surface takes more of this sun and water damage than the bottom.

But you have to do your part.

“If it’s a hillside deck it would be important to keep vegetation off it. Plants hold moisture and the moisture will cause dry rot,” he said. He added that vines are a “horrible idea.” “They just wipe out the wood,” he said.

- Jim Wlaker

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